The Story Behind The Popularity Of Hanfu

Behind the popularity of Hanfu, relevant data show that in the past three years, tmall's sales of Hanfu categories have increased by more than six times. In the first half of this year, the number of consumers buying Hanfu in tmall reached 20 million, and the potential consumers of Hanfu in the future will exceed 400 million.

The new platform of Hanfu is still accelerating. According to the data from BiliBili Bili, there will be 83.47 million national wind fans on the platform in 2019, of which 83% are young people under the age of 24.

When Hanfu, which used to be limited to a small group of people, broke through the circle, which meant the birth of a more popular consumer category. At the same time, many stores only saw Market dividends and lacked the basic awareness of intellectual property protection, which led to the increasingly fierce "competition between Shanzhai and authentic products" in the Hanfu circle in recent years.

A small number of Han clothes are gradually broken Huge potential capital entry

"Zuo Zhuan" records: "China has the etiquette of the big, so called summer, there is the beauty of chapter clothing, called China." The "Hua" here refers to the Han costume, which is gorgeous, elegant, dignified, implicit and inclusive, and contains the Chinese etiquette culture which has been precipitated for thousands of years.

Some fans believe that the "Hanfu trend" among young people today conveys a feeling and a national heritage.

Before Hanfu became a kind of phenomenal symbol, people had a vague description of it ancient costume. With the "95 after" and "00" gradually become the main consumer groups, Han clothing is defined as an independent clothing consumer category.

In March 2019, the "China fashion trend report 2019" released by "Taobao new power week" showed that among the top 10 Fashion search keyword trends, Hanfu ranked third in the women's wear list. The search volume of "Hanfu" has tripled year-on-year, and the number of people searching for "Hanfu" has exceeded that of "shirt" for several consecutive months.

Liuliu is a Hanfu shopkeeper. He has a deep understanding of the hot development of Hanfu in recent years. According to the introduction of the textile clothing market in Shaoxing, there were five layers of fabrics sold in Shaoxing. According to his introduction, there was a clothing market in Shaoxing.

Wu Xiao, who has been running Hanfu brand for six years, recalled that it was very difficult to find a manufacturer specializing in Hanfu at first. Most of them were traditional costume, opera costume or those with Hanfu in addition to fashion. Now, there are more than 20 professional Hanfu manufacturers in China.

In September 2019, CCTV financial report said that at present, the consumption population of Hanfu market in China has exceeded 2 million, and the total market size is about 1.09 billion yuan.

The Hanfu market with great development potential has attracted a lot of capital. It is reported that Ali and Huya have launched apps that focus on social functions of Chinese clothing, and have applied for trademark protection of multiple categories.

However, for some owners with weak awareness of intellectual property protection, if they don't pay attention to it, their hard-working Hanfu brand may be "taken away".

Mr. Jin, a Hanfu brand merchant, said in an interview with the financial media "Xiaguang news agency" that the cost of insisting on making original is very high, and there are many people in the circle who do Shanzhai Hanfu. In the short term, Shanzhai is more profitable and can save a lot of costs, but it can't be developed in the long run. Now consumers are increasingly concerned about the issue of Shanzhai. "If there is a possibility of counterfeiting suddenly, it will be put on the stigma column of" Shandian "once it is blacklisted, and brand reputation is very difficult It has been maintained.

Shanzhai Hanfu flooded the market Malicious rush registration hinders development

In the Hanfu circle, "Shanzhai" and "plagiarism" are two concepts.

According to industry insiders, "plagiarism" is based on the existing pattern, the adaptation, extraction of elements; and "Shanzhai" is the direct misappropriation of Han clothing fabrics designed by original merchants, and even rush to register other people's shop names and trademarks.

In recent years, "the dispute between Shanzhai and authentic products" has become a hot topic in the Hanfu circle. In the illegal commercial activities of Shanzhai shopkeepers, the original Hanfu merchants have become victims.

According to Wu Xiao, the production cycle of Hanfu is relatively long, and it takes at least two months to complete the whole process from style design, pattern making to final pre-sale and shipment. However, it is also necessary to ensure that the styles are updated quickly and attract consumers with new styles. At the same time, businesses should try their best to create "popular models".

Wu Xiao recalled that in the early years, there was no ready-made Hanfu for sale in China. A group of people who were interested in Hanfu spent a lot of time and energy collecting Hanfu materials and designing and making Hanfu by themselves, which was loved by everyone. But also because of the time-consuming and labor-consuming, the pricing is slightly higher.

"Later, when some people saw that they were selling well, they copied some similar Hanfu to sell, which saved time and effort, and the price was cheaper, so many new comers would choose the cheaper ones at the back. This caused the discomfort of the former group, because their hard work was simply copied and sold well Wu Xiao said.

In the view of many practitioners interviewed, "the dispute between Shanzhai and authentic products" is hindering the popularization of Hanfu.

Some Hanfu enthusiasts told reporters that many people "know the mountains through the mountains", and some people will confuse the concept that the price of authentic products is too high, and that the price of counterfeit goods is more suitable for junior players, "but the problem is that the genuine version is the painstaking efforts of designers, and the cottage is suspected of plagiarizing other people's labor achievements. If this trend is promoted, the cultural heritage of Hanfu can not last long and can only be reduced to the pursuit of cheap The business of catching up with the trend.

Another Hanfu enthusiast also expressed concern: "some original Hanfu styles will be copied by other stores as soon as they are launched, and then sold at a price lower than the original price. In this case, the original makers are hard to please, but the plagiarists are making a lot of money. If there is no strong protection mechanism for the original, less and less people will be patient to do the original."

According to Liuliu observation, since 2019, there have been large-scale trademark registration incidents in the industry, which may be the hidden danger left by the initial stage of the Hanfu market. In the initial stage, businesses often use small-scale self-produced and self-sale, small workshops and other modes, and there was not much infringement at that time. Now the market ushered in a blowout, commercial value highlights, Shanzhai shops are also increasing.

Liuliu's studio has partners from the fashion circle. With the help of the latter, Liuliu registered its trademark in the early stage of establishing the brand "Jin'e".

"Otherwise, we will not have a strong sense of brand protection." Six six said.

"The circle of Hanfu is small, and when we meet the wall, we have a stronger sense of protection for the original." Liuliu said that nowadays, many businesses have come to him for advice on how to maintain their original brand through trademark registration.

He will also remind the businessmen who come to consult to be wary of the black heart trademark registration agency - the trademark registration itself does not require the registrant to hold the store. Some black hearted agency companies can rush to register the trademark provided by the customer after finding that the trademark provided by the customer is not registered, so as to claim the amount from the customer and transfer the trademark.

Embezzlement of original Hanfu fabrics It's hard to tell the true from the false

Compared with trademark rush registration, in the view of industry insiders, embezzlement of original Hanfu fabric is a more common infringement of intellectual property rights in the circle, and it is more secretive, which is often difficult to find out in time.

According to reports, the garment cutting process of Hanfu is generally "flat cutting", that is, the front and back of the garment are cut through. Therefore, the fabric patterns required for the production of Hanfu are very complete, which makes it easier for Shanzhai shops or fabric manufacturers to misappropriate the original fabric design for illegal sale and secondary production.

Liuliu was found in Shaoxing Keqiao Textile Market in Zhejiang province that his original Hanfu fabrics were circulated in the market without authorization.

The bottom of the long skirt made in Song Dynasty is embroidered with a picture of a maid offering her birthday. In the live photos sent back from Keqiao Textile Market in Shaoxing, Zhejiang Province, the original fabric of the home can be recognized at a glance. This fabric was first used in Han clothing products of "Jin'e traditional clothing" at the end of 2018. After the fabric design was completed, Liuliu applied for information and obtained the work registration certificate.

In May last year, after seeing that this fabric was illegally sold in the market, through textual research, it was found that the main body of infringement was the factory producing the fabric in cooperation. Only when we were told that the six meter fabric would not be sold out.

In the face of the manufacturer's infringement, 66 is ready to file a civil lawsuit.

According to legal sources, the fabric design of clothing can be used as art works, and apply for the work registration certificate, which is protected by copyright. Even if the Shanzhai shop has applied for the work registration certificate, and the partial similarity is very high, the court will still consider which certificate has legal effect according to the registration time of the works.

In addition to protecting the original Hanfu through copyright, some Hanfu merchants will apply for the design scheme of foot shoes in accordance with the patent law as the design patent.

For example, the original Hanfu shop "Bu Yue Ge" specially designed and produced flat shoes for Hanfu. At present, the products on the market have held six patents. In 2019, Gaoyu, the operator of "buyue song", found on Taobao that a Shanzhai Hanfu shop had misappropriated the patent design of "buyuege" arched bow shoes, and then entrusted a lawyer to file a lawsuit.

Liuliu believes that there are still few reports related to the protection of intellectual property rights in fashion design. The Hanfu industry is also an emerging industry, and it is easy for us to form a general recognition that it is difficult to file a lawsuit and obtain evidence.

In this regard, practitioners generally believe that although they have certain legal means to protect original products, the weak awareness of intellectual property protection of Hanfu merchants and the time and economic cost of appeal are still the major problems in the current Hanfu industry to reduce the "dispute between fake products and genuine products". In order to put an end to the phenomenon of Shanzhai, only by encouraging more and more Hanfu businesses to protect intellectual property rights and form authoritative industry standards, can we further promote the branding and industrialization of Hanfu, and really get out of the limitations of small market.

In addition to the problem of counterfeiting, Hanfu also faces the problem of market speculation. Some practitioners have disclosed that, for example, some businesses have designed "hunger marketing" games, resulting in many styles of Hanfu becoming out of print in the circle. "Due to the imbalance of supply and demand in the Hanfu market and the participation of speculators, Hanfu has gradually become a luxury. Under this trend, those new groups who want to try to consume Hanfu will only" stay away from it. "