9 Tips For Sewing Silk Fabrics!
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textile industry
With the rapid development of modern silk fabrics, the number of modern silk fabrics has reached over 1000 species.
The most common types of silk fabrics are satin, satin, crepe, Qiao, spinning, Gong and Gong.
Among them, plain crepe satin is the most common satin. It is the silk that we all remember. The surface is bright and smooth. Silk is often seen in plain silk and twill, as well as silk crepe de Chine, silk Jo, silk chiffon, silk double palace...
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1 shrinkage
All silk fabrics are shrunk before they are made, because the shrinkage rate of silk fabrics varies from 4% to 10%. If there is no pre shrinkage, after making clothes, there is no alternative to dry cleaning.
It is specially reminded that silk fabrics must be soaked in cold water.
When shrunken, some silk wool or softener can be added to the water. This will not only clean the fabric, but also reduce the generation of static electricity.
Shrinkage usually takes four hours or more.
Fabric
Drink enough water so that it will never shrink again.
2 tailoring
Make sure that the fabric is smoothed before cutting.
Cut the silk in advance before putting it on.
Beginners are not recommended to start with thin silk fabrics like silk cicada, such as silk Jo, silk chiffon, silk and European sand.
3 sewing
First of all, the choice of pin number, in fact, not all silk fabrics need to be stitched with the finest sewing needle.
The needle number can be chosen according to the thickness of the fabric and its sewing level. Generally speaking, the thinner the sewing material is, the thinner the sewing needle is.
4 lining
Commonly used are two kinds: one is called water soluble lining, the other is the special silk lining of silk.
Water soluble lining: as the name suggests, when water is soluble, it usually increases the tension of fabric when cutting or sewing, so that cutting and sewing are easier.
Silk lining: more commonly used, when making silk clothing, will be used in many places.
For example, silk cheongsam waist, chest plucking and sewing place generally need to add silk lining, on the one hand, increase the thickness and toughness of fabric, on the other hand, it can prevent the phenomenon of wire drawing in the process of wearing.
Many silk fabrics can not be separated from silk lining when cutting and sewing. For example, real silk twill should be paid special attention when it is produced, and it can not be pulled or pulled. It will cause fabric deformation. Therefore, silk lining should be added to the edges and edges of the fabric to prevent deformation.
5 edge, curling
Lock and silk fabrics often involve locking and curling before making. Too light texture often causes many beginners to have a headache.
Here is a personal experience, which is to carry out the two lock.
When the first lock is used, the universal presser is used, the edges of the fabric are tiled, and the stitch is fast stitched.
The second time is to change the edge pressing foot, because the edge of the fabric has passed through a sewing, and the tension is greatly improved, so the curling becomes much easier.
According to the normal thickness of the fabric curling method, it can easily produce beautiful edges.
6 use the right needle.
After repeated trials, No. 9 German needle is the first choice.
Because this needle is made of real silk and thin material, it will not break the spun silk, so there will be no wire drawing.
In addition, there will be no needles for knitting thin fabrics.
These are the places that other imported needles fail to achieve.
7 sewing thread is very important.
Silk is also very important for making silk thread. The imported silk thread 50 (60) is a very good sewing thread.
It is much thinner than the ordinary polyester sewing thread, but its tensile strength is very good. It is not easy to break thread when sewing.
8 reduce the delivery of teeth.
The method of pferring cloth teeth: take the old machine as an example, pfer the cloth teeth to 0.4mm, and the old machine should adjust the cloth teeth according to the fabric.
Silk fabric: the height of the cloth is about 0.4mm.
[medium thickness fabric]: cloth tooth height 0.75mm
Fabric thickness
Fabric
The height of feeding tooth is 1.2mm.
The usual height is about 0.7mm.
9 adjust the pressure of shuttle skin.
Counterclockwise is loosening, clockwise is the tension of the tension line.
Hold the thread on your hand, gently shake it, and the spindle sleeve will fall slowly, which is more appropriate.
Finally, adjust the tension of the bottom line, so that the bottom line and the face line will be identical.
Sewing the clockwise code should not be too small. Use the hand to pull the slice of clothing, and send the cloth teeth along with the delivery.
For more information, please pay attention to the world clothing shoe and hat net information report.
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