Clothing Culture: The History Of Chinese Clothing Development

the ancients

We know the ancient costumes are seen from ancient TV dramas. So what exactly do the ancient costumes look like? Let's take a look with the Xiaobian.

Of all the animals on earth, only humans are dressed.

Why do people wear clothes? Some say it is for body protection and for keeping out the cold. This is explained from the perspective of function. Some say it is for shame and for politeness, which is explained from a moral point of view. Others say it is for good-looking and to attract the opposite sex, which is explained from an aesthetic point of view.

When apes just evolved into human beings, they certainly did not wear clothes. When did our ancestors begin to dress?

Ancient legends attributed the invention of clothes to Huang Di.

The book of changes says: "the Yellow Emperor, Yao and Shun Hang their clothes and govern the whole world.

"Actually, clothes appear much earlier.

We found bone needles in the caves of Zhoukoudian, so we could know that the cave men 18 thousand years ago had already dressed.

In the Yangshao culture site 6000 years ago, there were 10 coarse linen prints in every square centimeter and longitude and latitude.

In the Liangzhu Cultural Site 4000 years ago, there were 20~30 fine silk fabrics with a square centimeter of longitude and latitude and 40~50 silk slots each with a square centimeter of latitude and longitude.

People at that time must have dressed, but we could not know what kind of clothes they were wearing.

Shang and Zhou Dynasties

The basic shape is the coat under the coat.

"Shuo Wen Jie Zi" said, "the upper garment is called" the next garment ".

"The dress underneath is actually a skirt, not a pair of trousers.

Jin Wenzhong often has a record of Zhou Tian Zi's reward to his subordinate.

"Chai" is a piece of red cloth, tied in the waist before the abdomen. It is a symbol of the nobility's dress and identity, also known as Wei, later known as the "cover up".

The custom of the Huaxia nationality is to get hair tied and the bun should be used.

Many bones of the Shang Dynasty were unearthed.

In the pre Qin period, the costumes of the Huaxia nationality were characterized by their jackets and clothing.

The clothes are right and narrow sleeves, and the length is up and down the knees.

Collar, sleeve, flap and frill are decorated with lace, without buttons, with waist.

The clothing of Hu people is short sleeves, narrow sleeves, left trousers and leather boots.

King Zhao Wuling introduced Hu Fu into the Central Plains, which had a positive effect on the changes of the costumes of the Cathay people during the Warring States period and the Qin Han period.

In the spring and Autumn period and the Warring States period, a new garment called deep clothing appeared.

Kong Yingda, a ritual dress, said: "deep clothes and clothes are connected, and the body is deep."

People in Warring States and Qin and Han Dynasties wore deep clothes, whether they were rich or cheap, men or women, or military and civil servants. The nobility wore a coronal dress as a dress and a deep dress as a regular garment.

Deep clothing even hooks, wear a belt when wearing.

The gentry, whose silk is woven by a nobleman, is called a gentleman or a gentleman.

The belt has been popular. The two ends of the belt are linked by hooks and rings. They are called hooks or belts.

The belt can be hung or worn with sword, bow, arrow, seal, purse and other objects.

Not in the pre Qin period.

The so-called "cloth clothing" refers to the clothes made of gunny cloth.

In summer, the linen cloth is called Ge, winter clothes, robes and fur.

A robe is a jacket that is worn inside, a solid silk lining, a new robe filled with a new robe, and a robe filled with old scours.

Poor people can't fill silk floss, they can only fill in some flax, called robe.

Because of the underwear, the robe can only be dressed at home, but it can not be used as a dress.

The short robe is called "Yi", which is what he later said.

Coarse texture called brown.

Qiu is a fur coat. The pre Qin period is also the main winter coat.

Costumes in Qin and Han Dynasties were more abundant than those in the pre Qin period.

The book of rites says, "clothes are not silk."

"This is because they are underwear. Confucian advocates frugality, and thinks that silk should not be used to cut underwear.

By the time of the Six Dynasties, those family members actually used white silk to make trousers, so they were called "dandy boys".

Ancient trousers usually have no crotch, only two trouser legs, the upper end linked together, and the belt tied to the waist, so it is called "Jiao".

"Shing Ming" said: cross.

Two strands and each other.

"Underwear is not exposed. It must wear a skirt or a deep garment on the outside.

When a civilian wears a short coat, he should wear a crotch cloth, just like the costume of a Japanese sumo wrestler.

In the early Song Dynasty's barring diagram, we could still see this way.

Crotch shorts are called "crotch".

Short as nose and nose, commonly known as calf nose pants.

Sima Xiangru brought Zhuo Wenjun back to Chengdu and wore a pair of calf trousers to make up for Zhuo Wangsun.

A man's coat is also known as a robe.

The upper body of the robe is called the sleeves, and the sleeves are loose.

The tight cuff is called "dispel".

The robe has a lining and a jacket.

Unlined clothes.

The robes and the skirts of the robe have two kinds: the curl and the straight.

When wearing a deep garment, the body is inconvenient to move and slowly replaced by the straight.

Women wear a deep dress or split skirt. The style of Han dynasty women's clothing is not very different from that of men's.

During the Wei, Jin, southern and Northern Dynasties, there were two changes in the costumes. One was that the Chinese dress was broken, and the other was that Hu clothing was absorbed into the Han costume.

Men's costumes are replaced by shirts.

"Shiming" said: "shirts, sleeves and ends.

That is to say, the sleeves of the shirt are not, so the sleeves of sleeves are bigger than the sleeves of the robe, and the size of the sleeves is two, and the length of one skirt can be divided into two "points".

In the Qin and Han Dynasties, the colors were green and purple, and the civilian clothes only wore white clothes.

The Six Dynasties were abnormal and they were still white.

Due to the impact of the exclusive status of Confucian classics, the Confucian system of crown clothing was also shaken. Not only did the styles and colors of clothes break through the rules of the Han Dynasty, but they also tended to be unconventional in dressing and dressing.

Dress adornment is also advocated in women's clothing, some of which are lengthened and trimmed into triangles, called "?"; some of them wear a piece of silk between the shoulders and arms, and walk on the road with great sleeves and graceful movements.

Hu's trousers and boots have been widely accepted by Han people.

Hu's trousers are trousers that are worn as outer garments. The legs are loose, and the knees are tied with bands, called trouser trousers.

The pleat is a tight knee padded jacket with trousers, and the pleats and boots are suitable for riding.

In the Sui and Tang Dynasties, after a long period of national integration, coupled with economic prosperity and social openness, the costumes also became increasingly rich and magnificent.

Before the Kaiyuan, women's wear was fashionable with narrow sleeves. Hu clothing was especially popular. Women like Dai Hu hat in the early Tang Dynasty, wearing narrow Lapel sleeves and striped pants, and wearing soft boots and belts.

After the Mid Tang Dynasty, the clothes became more spacious.

In the Tang Dynasty, the society was more open. Women often wear men's clothing and low collar clothing. They like to wear a pair of short sleeved clothes outside their shirts, called half arms or half sleeves.

The women's skirts in the Tang Dynasty had many styles and colorful colors, especially red skirts like pomegranate flowers.

Men's wear is mainly made of round collar and narrow sleeved robe, and boots have become general shoes.

In the Song Dynasty, the single coat was called the shirt, and the cuffs of the shirt were not removed.

There are short shirts as underwear, and also a sweater as a coat.

The hem with a horizontal Jersey is a man's suit.

Jacket and cotton clothing are called "Yi" and "coat".

In the Song Dynasty, there was also a large outer garment covered with no cross, which was called a straight body with a straight collar and a straight collar.

Women's wear is mainly made of blouses and skirts, and the tops are short and narrow, and the next is a popular pleated skirt.

Underwear has a bra and belly binding, trousers are not exposed outside, only the lower class personnel wear pants.

The "half arm" popular in the Tang Dynasty was a short sleeved coat, and the song coat was called back.

The back is long and short with long sleeves and short sleeves. It features both sides of the slit open to the armpit.

All the nationalities in Liao, Jin and Yuan Dynasties were ethnic minorities, and the costumes of Khitan, nzhen, and Mongolians all had distinct national characteristics.

The clothing of the Qidan nationality, both men and women, wears a long left robe, a round collar, a narrow sleeved robe, a shirt and a coat inside, and a trouser leg in his boots.

Women wear skirts in their gowns and wear leather boots.

The dress of the nzhen nationality is similar to that of the Khitan people. Because of the cold climate in the north, the clothes are mainly fur.

During the Yuan Dynasty, the Han people kept their original clothes.

Mongolian men wear narrow sleeves and long trousers as their main costumes, but because of the influence of Han people, they are mostly changed to the right ones, while women's robes are mostly left.

In the Ming Dynasty, the robe of the officials was the collar shirt, the leather belt and the jade belt. This is the so-called jade belt.

The colors and patterns of official officers vary according to rank.

A square ornamentation is made on the front and back, called complement.

The embroidered fowls of the civil servants embroidered the birds, and the complements of the military officers embroidered the animals, and the patterns were different according to the ranks.

Confucian scholars wore black straight blue body and soft black scarf, also called Confucian scarf.

They wear blue cloth, and the merchants of the marketplace can wear silk and satin, but they only use blue or black.

After the Wanli calendar, the ban was slack, and the dress became popular.

The dress of the imperial wife is a phoenix crown, a summer dress and a big sleeved shirt.

The back is worn more widely, and the collar with big sleeves can be used as a dress, while the straight sleeve with a small sleeve is a casual dress.

There is also a waistcoat with no collar, sleeveless and long knee to shoulder breasted, called Belgian, which is popular among young women.

After Manchu entered the Qing Dynasty, the Han people were forced to accept Manchu costumes by force.

Men's clothes are robes, shirts, gowns and trousers.

In the Qing Dynasty, the robes of the Qing Dynasty discriminate between the noble and the cheap. The royal clan opened four slits, and the officials and scholars opened two slits.

The sleeves of the robe are equipped with arcuate sleeves, which are usually turned up and lowered when they salute, because they resembles the horseshoe, also known as the horseshoe sleeve.

In the middle of the chest and back of the official service, a piece of patch is also stitched up, which is called supplement.

Buzi also used the Ming system of bird and beast, but the pattern was different from that of the Ming Dynasty, and because of the Qing Dynasty's complement is a pair of breasts, so the chest piece is divided into two halves.

There is a short coat that is not as long as the waist and sleeves only to cover the elbow. It is called a gown, or a mandarin jacket.

The mandarin jacket is yellow, but not the emperor.

There are also vests. The north is called a vest or vest. It is a sleeveless short coat that can be worn by both men and women.

Men wearing pants and wearing skirts are rare.

In the early Qing Dynasty, it was stipulated that "men do not obey women", so women's clothing has two styles of Manchu Han.

Han nationality women's head ornaments include hairpins, hairpins, coronet, and so on. Manchu women have the most distinctive characteristics of "big pulling wings", such as archway.

Manchu women's clothing is similar to men's, but also wearing gowns and Liriodendron, but generally relatively tight, not as big as Han Chinese women's wear.

Han women were still dressed in the early Qing Dynasty.

After the Manchu Han clothing slowly confluence, clothes gradually shorter, the outside is covered with a knee vest.

Women's clothes are especially decorative with lace, so the more the lace rolls, the wider the garment edge.

Trousers and skirts were popular in late Qing Dynasty.