Without Yves Saint Laurent YSL Needs Energetic Designers.

For people accustomed to elegant high fashion, the skirts with cherry, star and flower patterns look cheap or even gaudy.

The logic of fashion has always been to imitate the style of the upper class, but in Hedi Slimane, everything is the opposite.

He used high fashion to show street and underground clothes.

There is no doubt that this is the world view of Slimane: Losangeles rock fans in Paris high fashion.

Not long ago, Slimane made another startling move after the design director of Saint Laurent, who moved the world's largest flagship store from Paris to Losangeles, where, after 1 years of preparation, he designed and built the latest three floor 900 square meter Saint Laurent Paris concept store in Losangeles.

It is decorated with contrasting black and white colors. The marble and concrete slab are juxtaposed. The mirrored display with gold, silver and glass texture is very cool and modern.

As the VIP area, the back door also provides a secret channel for star customers.

The designer, born in Paris in 1968, loves rock, photography and subculture. He has been designing men's clothing in YSL since 1996, and is well known by YSL, the founder of the brand.

Later, he joined Dior in designing men's clothing.

Compared to Slimane, neither the relatively conservative predecessor Stefano Pilati or the Tom Ford that had previously walked the sexy route failed to get the favor of YSL management.

Pierre Berge, who has worked with YSL for 50 years, even expressed plainly, "I'm glad Stefano Pilati has left, just as I was glad that Tom Ford left."

After returning to YSL in June 2012, Slimane immediately embarked on brand remodeling. The biggest changes included the change of name Yves Saint Laurent to the Saint Laurent Paris for nearly 50 years, changing the product packaging design and Logo fonts, and moving the design center of YSL from the brand origin of Paris to the West Hollywood.

It is the entertainment area of Losangeles, which is full of nightclubs, restaurants and bars. Movie stars gather and hold various kinds of parties all year round.

These actions caused an uproar.

Facebook has warned that the new logo will "destroy a valuable legacy of the industry, an empire, a legend."

Colette, a famous fashion shop in Paris, produced a T-shirt which says, "no It ain't Laurent without Yves".

This is the criticism of Slimane's new design.

The design of his rock and roll style, his thin coat, slender narrow trousers and pointed shoes were not well received. 2013 autumn and winter series of "California Grunge" in California were even derogated as junk.

The former New York Times Fashion Critic Cathy Horyn said those sequins looked like Topshop or second-hand clothes.

Slimane joined YSL's anxiety of California rock youth, and people began to worry that it would turn an elegant brand that belonged to Paris into a street dress for American rock youth.

But the market ignored the comments of these fashion critics.

Slimane's wide brimmed hat, Ranger boots and leather smoking suit are very popular.

Sac Du Jour handbag, like a very minimalist version of Hermes platinum, has become a status symbol.

The actual sales rate of Slimane's first spring series in New York department store Barneys reached 60%, which is a good figure.

"Leather Knights jackets, baseball jackets and accessories are sold out in a few days."

Damien Paul, Menswear buyer of fashion shopping website MATCHESFASHION said.

Although the new YSL costume looks designed for people under the age of 25, they are also popular among people of many ages.

Sarah Stewart, a buyer of Maxfield fashion shop in Losangeles, told the Wall Street journal that many middle-aged women are also buying YSL's smart skirts, while men like their jackets.

Rebellious rock spirit is the designer's greatest inspiration.

In June this year's YSL 2015 spring and summer men's show, every seat has a note on it, which says "Psych Rock's New Rising" (a new era of spiritual rock).

Psychedelic lights, the music background of the 1960s Renaissance band, South Korean rapper G-Dragon drew a decadent makeup to smoke outside the show.

Celebrity effect is an important means for Slimane to win young people's market.

In Asia, Slimane has a good relationship with Bigbang captain G-Dragon of the Korean idol group. The latter will wear YSL full dress on various occasions, which makes several Leopard Coat and fur leather trousers popular in the post-90s group.

Celebrity effect is an important way for Slimane to win the young people's market

Slimane is also a co - Designer of many music stars such as Bruno Mars, and he is also a rolling stone 50th Anniversary Tour Leader for the rolling stone Orchestra and guitarist Keith Richards.

He even hired a former nightclub manager to manage the shops in New York and Losangeles, and the playlists in the store were all drawn up by Slimane himself.

Inspired by Marrakech in Morocco, YSL, the color creator, published a series of unprecedented designs in 1976, including the Gypsy, India, Caucasus, Slavic and Turkey.

He convinced people at that time that fashion works need no reality, as long as they express impressions, fantasies and spectacularly.

But now it is not the age of Saint Loran.

High street brand and fast fashion are attacking designer brand with various styles and low prices.

YSL predicted this era, "all fashions are only 1 years old, and they are instantaneous."

Slimane has been appreciated in this era.

YSL and Kai Yun group have given him great trust.

"Losangeles is an important experimental site for culture, music, drama, digital and technology, a key to innovation, and also influenced by Asian culture."

YSL CEO Francesca Bellettini said to the Wall Street journal.

She believes that Losangeles's creativity for Slimane is no less than Marrakech's role in YSL.

For a high fashion brand originated in Paris, it seems crazy to move the design center and the world's largest flagship store to Losangeles, but this represents a new trend.

The attention center of global fashion is moving from Paris to Losangeles.

As Bronwyn Cosgrave of many fashion history books said, "Hollywood is the new T stage, and the actress will be the main model of these fashions. Slimane is in the right direction.

YSL no longer makes advanced customization, it must become a different way of life, reflecting a more modern aesthetics.

Slimane sells this kind of modern aesthetics.

In the past, the most important source of luxury purchases was the origin of the brand. The dress should be made in France and the leather goods should be produced in Italy.

With the re layout of the industrial chain by globalization, the traditional luxury consumption logic has been broken. "Made in France", as long as the last production link remains in the place of origin, even completes the task, and even now, the original creative design has left Paris, and people no longer cover it up.

Slimane's garments perfectly capture Modernity -- simple and direct.

He likes to show things young and rough, so that high fashion produces a kind of street.

The effect.

"If you accept the fashion view of the times, we have to admit that in this respect, Slimane is impressive and even prescient."

Cathy Horyn, who had been rejected by Slimane for the show, wrote.

Popular clothing was once the antithesis of high fashion, but now they have become mutual reference.

In this autumn's series, many

Just like Slimane, it began to show this direct and popular style, such as Celine's 1940s style coat, and the matching of Bottega Veneta's dress and half skirt.

Of course, you can think of them as embracing commercialization or kitsch, but the market is always the ultimate criterion for testing business behavior.

According to the first half year's report of YSL's parent company Kai Yun group, YSL has defeated the group's core brand GUCCI and the sudden rise of Bottega Veneta with the growth rate of 28%, becoming the fastest growing brand of the whole group in 2014.

For Slimane, this is good news.

The designer who broke the tradition finally broke the challenge that he had been in office for two years.

As Fashion Critic Tim Blanks said, "no matter what he does, it will be no more shocking."

From a point of view,

The controversy and treason are precisely the return of YSL's performance in that year.

He tried to bring YSL back to its coolest age - 1965 to 1968.

The left bank of Paris in 1960s is a symbol of freedom and awakening.

He claimed that the inspiration to rename the brand came from YSL's first clothing store "Saint Laurent Rive Gauche". For this reason, he also set up YSL advanced garment salon and workshop on the left bank.

From the men's black glossy tights to the women's perspective gauze bra, the shocking design of the left bank Saint Laurent has embarrassed the public at that time and was strongly criticized by other fashion designers.

However, no one can stop them from being the classics of the coolest youths of that era.

Compared with these, Slimane's garbage rock breeze is not too surprising.

Today, without Yves's Saint Laurent, it may turn Hollywood into a new left bank.