The Traditional Fabric Is Still Worn.
This summer, when you walk in a lot
International luxury brands
The dazzling two storeyed storefront, which is haunting the ears, is: "it's real silk, real silk, real silk..."
Silk, linen and yarn are widely used.
Chinese traditional costume
The fabric in this year has become the carrier of many brand designers' creativity in spring and summer this year.
People use them to show comfort, elegance and taste.
Especially for men in the workplace, suits and suits can no longer highlight their success and personality.
Traditional fabric
Men's clothing allows them to look for their own characteristics in dress, or elegant, or vigorous and resolute. In returning to traditional fabrics, they also find Chinese men's original appearance.
Those clothes that I used to wear
There is no need to trace back too far.
clothing
It is completely different from modern times.
Men in the Qing Dynasty were mainly dressed in gowns, mandarin jacket and vest.
Among them, the robe from the yarn to the skin, to dozens of species.
Only the yarn materials are divided into yarn and dark yarn, and they are divided into single, clip and cotton according to season.
Outside the robe, people wear Liriodendron and vest.
The vest is also made of leather, clip and single, and the material of single vest is mostly hemp fabric and silk fabric.
At that time, the waistcoat became an important dress for the wealthy men and women in the late Qing Dynasty.
Until the end of the Qing Dynasty, people dressed in western style clothes or combining Chinese and Western gradually grew up.
It is interesting that in the first year of the Republic of China, the provisional government of the Republic of China issued a formal dress code, that is, "service system".
The text in the decree corresponds to the illustration and specifies the dress of men.
For example, "second, formal dress is like the first picture.
Domestic silk is used.
The color is black.
Third, there are two kinds of gifts.
A pattern is like second diagrams.
Domestic use
Silk, cotton or linen products
。
The color is black. "
It can be seen that clothing was still dominated by domestic fabrics at that time.
As for the beginning of Chinese making and wearing western suits, according to historical records, in 1864, in Hongkou District, Shanghai Broadway, some people set up stalls to sell imported woollen fabrics, creating material conditions for the development of suits.
In the past 150 years, the form of "learning western style" has not changed, whether in clothing brand, style or fabric.
Now, some of China's own brands have picked up the old craft and improved it, extracted the essence, joined the elements of the times, and gradually recalled the original temperament of Chinese men, and this train of thought has also been widely recognized by all sectors of society.
Traditional fabrics reveal the sense of the times.
The source Blanc de Chine, founded in 1986, is positioned as China's high-end luxury brand. Most of its high fashion brands are based on
Pure silk, wool, linen, high yarn, pure cotton
And other natural animal and plant raw materials.
Nearly half of the "Blanc de Chine" products are silk fabrics.
50% of raw silk materials are made in China, but post-processing such as dyeing, finalization and sand washing are done in Hongkong or abroad.
In addition, about 25% of silk fabrics are imported directly from Switzerland, France and Italy.
The remaining 25% of the pure silk fabrics are exclusively developed and used by special production.
"Source Blanc de Chine," Zhang Yongli, head of public relations in China, told reporters.
In the store of "source Blanc de Chine" in the three phase of China World Trade Center, the men's wear area is obviously larger than that of the women's wear area, Zhang Yongli said. This is because men's wear is better than women's wear here.
One of the spring men's coats has attracted the attention of reporters. The coat is smooth and textured, like a fur coat.
Zhang Yongli said that this is the exclusive patent silk fabric "Blanc de Chine" - Leather silk.
In addition, in the store's pendants, you can often see a nice men's coat. These tops are made of silk filament, and the filament has a good vertical feel, but the price is several times shorter than that of the short silk.
The Chinese storefront of Zeng Feng Fei FENGFEI. Z, located in shinguang world, is very prominent in a row of foreign brands.
Ceng Fengfei's brand men's clothing is mainly made of fabrics like fragrant gauze, hemp, cotton, ice cotton and other fabrics.
Interview with design director Ceng Fengfei, he said that the traditional elements of China should be abstracted with a sense of the times rather than just taking out a button.
"I hope ladies will be able to buy their father, husband and boyfriend when they see my clothes, and I want them to think that the fashion I design is quite consistent with their men's image."
Ceng Fengfei said.
Adopted in Ceng Fengfei fashion.
Fabric
Many of them were designed by himself.
"Fabric is very important to designers. There are rich patterns in Chinese history and culture, for example, pictographs are themselves patterns". Ceng Fengfei took out the appearance of several fabrics to explain to reporters. "There are words and patterns in it, and there are patterns in Terracotta Army. In the second half of this year, the garments made of these fabrics will come into the market."
In terms of sales volume, Ceng Fengfei introduced the sales performance of Financial Street shopping center as an example, which has reached second of its brand performance. "This year, we plan to open 7 to 8 stores nationwide."
Ceng Fengfei said.
Low key manual skills
In the 2011 summer wear of Zeng Feng Fei FENGFEI. Z, the short sleeved jacket made of Xiangyun gauze is one of the main products of this season.
Since ancient times, China has the saying "men wear yarn and women wear silk", and Xiangyun gauze is an ancient Chinese hand made plant dyed fabric. It has a history of more than 1000 years, and has the function of wearing smooth, cool, removing bacteria, repelling insects, and protecting skin.
Once, only the large family of Zhu can be used.
"To make such a fabric, we need to wash it with a layer of sand, wash it with a layer of water, and then grind it into a dyestuff. It's a natural way of making it."
Ceng Fengfei introduced.
The invisible quality of the source Blanc de Chine can not be seen from the outward appearance. Zhang Yongli said that only 6 teachers in the company can use this technology. Its characteristic is that the needle is walking on it, but the needle eye can not be seen. This can ensure that the surface and filler are not separated under the premise of ensuring beauty.
Compared with the design which is attractive to the Chinese elements, the Chinese style clothing brands now emphasize the abstraction of the design language and emphasize the quality in detail.
Their clothing is no longer a special symbol of attracting foreigners, but it has been tailored for Chinese men.
The people who wore them also expanded from culture, government officials, diplomatic envoys and business elites to all walks of life, and the age of the consumer groups was younger. As Ceng Fengfei said, "I hope this material can be seen in the boy's ceremony."
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