Under The Epidemic, Fast Fashion Is Facing A Turning Point, And "Slow Fashion" Is Ready To Come Out.
No one has ever thought that the global fashion industry with an annual output value of US $2 trillion and 500 billion has been hit hard by unprecedented times. Because of the long supply chain of fashion industry, this crisis not only threatens the livelihood of suppliers, designers, retailers, but also indicates that the "fast fashion" mode of high production and high consumption may be faced with a turning point.
"When you stay at home and do not go to the company, do not go out to eat, do not participate in activities, the demand for clothing hardly exists." Caroline Rush, chief executive of the British Fashion Council, told European news television that people are facing a "stock crisis".
From 3 to April, sales of the global fashion and luxury goods industry dropped by nearly 70%. As of May, the order of 1 billion 500 million US dollars of Bangladesh clothing manufacturing center has been cancelled. Many fast fashion brands, which are at the core of the "fast fashion" brand, have to face the huge stock before they close.
In order to avoid the fate of clothes that have been produced but can not be sold to burn or landfill, fast fashion brands such as H&M, Zara and Gap have linked most of their stocks to the Internet, promoting sales through price reduction and other activities. Although the online sales of these fashion groups have increased substantially in the first quarter, data show that the low proportion of online sales to total sales does not make up for the loss of physical stores.
For example, the Spanish parent Inditex of the Zara parent company lost 409 million euros in the first quarter, the first loss since its listing in 2001. At the height of the global epidemic situation, the group closed 88% of its stores and adopted online sales. But online sales accounted for only 14% of total sales, so online sales in the first quarter, though surging by 50%, were no more than a drop in the bucket. The group announced in June 10th that it closed nearly 1200 of the world's 7500 stores and strive to increase the share of online sales to 25%.
People suddenly realize that the focus of competition in fast fashion industry is no longer just related to speed. "Fast fashion" flourished in the early twenty-first Century with the rise of "improvised consumption". As soon as the new clothes on the fashion show are displayed, the "fast fashion" brand can quickly copy, produce and reproduce the latest fashions on the shelves. Consumers can buy the best costumes at a low price, or throw them away only one or two times.
Driven by the "fast fashion" trend, people's clothing purchases increased by 60% from 2006 to 2016, but the average life expectancy of each garment was only 1/2. According to the report of the British Parliament, in the developed fast fashion industry, Britain buys more clothes per capita than any other country in Europe. About 30 billion of the clothes are left in the British wardrobe. Every year, 140 million worth of clothing is sent to the landfill.
Elizabeth Stiles, a British fashion consultant, said: "after the reopening of fashion stores, conscious consumerism will really rise. The key to a brand's survival lies in brand stories, commendable products and sustainable attributes. "The new crown epidemic encourages consumers to reduce impulse buying and have a more thorough consideration in shopping." Gianfranco DiNatale, managing director of the Federation of apparel and textile industries in Italy, said that "fast fashion" is facing changes.
In fact, the discussion on the sustainable development of fashion industry has existed for a long time. But according to this year's report of fashion search platform Lyst, the search engine related to sustainability has increased by 37% since the beginning of the year. At the same time, the search volume of "slow fashion" reached 90 million, suggesting that people's consumption behavior is changing.
Although there is no uniform definition of "slow fashion", it is a response to the negative impact of "fast fashion". It opposed excessive production, too complex supply chains and unconscious consumerism, and encouraged slower production cycles, more equitable wages and lower carbon emissions. Classic, lasting and environmental protection are the characteristics of "slow fashion".
According to data from the United Nations Energy Agency, the carbon footprint of the fashion industry accounts for 10% of the world's total, more than the total aviation and shipping industry. As people questioned the "fast fashion" industry, more and more brands began to realize the need for sustainable development. Zara, Pull&Bear and other brands promised in July last year that by 2025, all of their clothes will be made of sustainable fabrics, and they will no longer send clothes to landfills.
Most metropolitan newspapers also provide consumers with an introduction to "slow fashion". People who want to change their spending habits can try to sort out wardrobes, browse second-hand markets, learn sewing technology or invest in the brand's flagship products, so that they can take longer.
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