Chinese Designers Walk Into The 16 Faces Of Men'S Clothing Week In The International Fashion Circle.

Now Chinese designers are seeking to merge with the mainstream fashion world.

A group of designers showed up in front of London men's wear week.

London, England - in order to take part in the 2016 spring summer London men's week, Zhou Xiangyu (Xander Zhou) set sail from Beijing to Heathrow Airport 13 weeks before the opening week.

He bought the extra luggage space on the Internet in advance, but he still spent more than ten thousand yuan on the consignment cost.

Holding fashion conferences abroad has always been expensive.

In London, for example, a general fashion conference will cost at least one million yuan.

And the probability of unexpected problems is much more than that of holding a press conference in China.

Even so, why are Chinese designers still willing to go all the way to display the world's major fashion (micro-blog) capital?

"In fact, the global fashion market is still limited to New York, London, Milan and Paris.

You have only so much time.

So if you are a young designer and want to enter the international market, you really need to show up internationally.

The founder of BoF Imran Amed gave a realistic answer with the 10 Corso Como founder Carla Sozzani in the iFASHION talk.

The fashion industry in China is indeed in a period of rapid development.

In addition to the official activities such as Mercedes Benz international fashion week, Shanghai fashion week and Shenzhen fashion week, fashion retailers such as Dressing for Fun, Dong Liang and Lane Crawford are also helping their designers grow in their own way.

However, in the short term, it is still unable to provide the international influence of the four fashion week.

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Even in this era of global Internet, the media and buyer resources of fashion are still highly concentrated in these four fashion capital cities.

For designers, it is much more convenient for them to see their works locally than to fly them to Beijing or Shanghai.

In addition, Chinese designers go abroad to do shows, which aim to integrate local fashion atmosphere into their brands and get a broader brand value.

The identity of Chinese designers is important, but we must go to a bigger stage to draw the attention of the world.

London is often the first choice for young designers.

As a hub of cultural and commercial exchanges between China and the west, there is a unique historical accumulation here.

More importantly, the city appreciates and respects creativity.

"Here is very vitality, business atmosphere is not so harsh, creative big, which makes me feel that I will make fashion more meaningful."

Zhou Xiangyu said.

The British fashion industry supports Chinese designers to choose London as an international platform.

The London men's wear week has three names of Chinese designers, including Xander Zhou, Sankuanz and JOHN SEAN JOHNSUEN, and is benefiting from the "GQ Council" project launched by the British Fashion Association (British Fashion Council) and the GQ (micro-blog) intellectual family, launched by Zhou Xiangyu (Zhou).

Each year, the project aims to promote the exchange and support of young designers between Chinese and British fashion talents.

The sponsored men's designer will show the two season in London men's week.

After the project, the two sides also encouraged designers to stay in London.

In addition to the above 3, Hongkong's designer Guo Zifeng (Kay Kwok) was also the beneficiary of the project.

In addition, the demands of domestic market and international market are different.

some

More radical designers are more suitable for development abroad.

Like the first two personal series displayed by Shangguan Zhe in the fashion week of Shanghai, he got the voice of two poles. However, this style is well received in London.

Whether it is a series of Russian prison tattoo culture exhibited in London, the first theme in London, or the second psychedelic series entitled "Dolphin Hotel", the international media and retailers have shown great interest: SHOWstudio has conducted live broadcast on his 2015 autumn and Winter Conference (Live Panel); Opening Ceremony, Joyce, V Files and Square international pioneer boutique have also bought his works one after another.

"If you bring extraordinary creativity, London will give you more."

Shangguan summarized his harvest in London.

Shangguan Zhe is brilliant and has business thinking.

He founded the personal brand Sankuanz in 2007, but did not immediately attack the international fashion circle. Instead, he founded the sub line named Ze in 2010, selling at Taobao and many domestic buyer shops, earning the first barrel of gold and stabilizing the business foundation.

After closing the line in 2013, he concentrated his energies on the establishment of personal brands.

"This experience is still very helpful to me.

First, let me understand the business market, and the other is to dredge the industrial chain and supply chain.

He told BoF.

Tonight, he is about to present his new series of inspirations in Mongolia.

This will be his third overseas fashion show.

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Zhou Xiangyu is the first Chinese men's wear designer who has stepped out of this project and has taken root in London.

He made his debut three years ago, and now he will display his work seventh times in London.

"Tempering the international arena is tantamount to throwing you into a new system."

He said, "this is a process of rebirth and rebirth."

It can correct some mistakes before, and let people have many new perspectives.

After the two season's sponsorship, Zhou Xiangyu's follow-up conference was completed on the basis of self reliance, including the next 15, which is about to show what he called "face self fear".

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Without the communication of GQ Zhi, the difficulties in all aspects will be a problem to be overcome by him or other designers who are going to London later.

Not only is it a show, but business is a brand new world.

Zhou Xiangyu is a stranger here.

He said, "at first, you will feel bullied because of all kinds of small problems. After that, you will not have such childish ideas.

Maybe it's because I have learned how to adapt in this new system.

"In China, fashion is not a system. Everyone can be an independent system. At the beginning, it was not customary to do things with rules."

But now, Zhou Xiangyu, who knows the international operation mode, is more and more proficient. He continued: "my public relations company Ella Dror and I said, Xander Zhou was the largest number of media lending in all the brands of the company at the end of last year.

I think it's a proud thing to some extent. "

Today, Shangguan Zhe, who is to be exhibited for the first time in London, feels the same way.

"In the past year, I grew up more than I did in the past seven years.

I think an asian designer is more difficult to walk to Europe than the local designer.

Once they graduate, they can get to the core. We have to go very far to get there. "

He said, "but this is a process of self confidence being destroyed and rebuilt.

I was confident at home, but I collapsed in Paris, and I felt totally helpless.

Then learn and rebuild self-confidence.

When I first went to Paris Showroom Romeo, I was told by Romeo, the responsible person.

Because I printed two hundred very thick fabric album in Paris to China.

But he said no buyer would take it away, so he threw away all the album.

In fact, for Chinese designers, setbacks are the best way to grow.

This season came to London to show that designer Sun Xiaofeng had made preparations.

"London is facing bigger and more diverse groups and greater challenges."

He said.

This season, Sun Xiaofeng will present a modern version of journey to the west, focusing on "an oriental young man's perception of foreign cultures during his travels, digestion and reappearance."

"He is a man who does things steadfastly. He is gentle in style.

There are potential in both business and picture. "

As director of the GQ China Present project, Cui Dan, fashion director of GQ intelligence group, told BoF the reason why he recommended Sun Xiaofeng to London this time: "besides, he also had experience in making shows.

Because we can't just have a blank sheet of paper, at least you can afford a show.

Before I left, I talked to him most about him.

And the market definition, his comprehensive quality can support his road to a commercial brand, which is another level of GQ's appeal.

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When considering the purchase of designer's works, international retailers, like Cui Dan, need to consider issues such as ROI and growth potential.

Even though a designer has a reputation, he has no definite business plan, solid product and stable brand development as a support.

It's hard to get echoes with more voices.

This is why, especially for young Chinese designers, the recognition of well-known international buyer shops is very important.

At the opening of the London men's wear week, four other Chinese designers, Ximon Lee, Li Xiao (Xiao Li), Guo Zifeng (Kay Kwok) and Zhang Jiahe (Kenneth Cheung), also gained the opportunity to show themselves in London through the easterly trend of fashion retailers. Simon,

This time, Joyce selected 4 young designers from Machine-A, a London buyer's shop, and invited them to design 8 works for display and exclusive sale in shops in London and Hongkong.

In addition to Chinese exhibitors

The designers in the UK were Adam Marc James, Grace Wales Bonner, Kiko Kostadinov and Chris O "Caroll" respectively.

Stavros Karelis, the founder of Machine-A, stressed: "we have chosen new designers, so talent is the first consideration.

Of course, product quality, production and delivery are also very important.

After all, doing retail is quite different from designing. "

The pioneer photographer Nick Knight, a joint artist Rei Nadal, specially directed a short film called "Yungsters" (young man), showing the cross-cultural collision between Chinese and Western fashion ideas.

"These designers are the future of fashion. They have different courage and attitude, which makes me look forward to the future.

SHOWstudio has always been very supportive of young talents.

I hope that in the near future, I will have the opportunity to introduce more young designers to Hongkong, London and the whole world.

Nick Knight told BoF.

There is no doubt that Chinese designers set off a wave that can not be ignored in the London men's wear week. The international fashion circle is also enthusiastically preparing for it.

But Cui Dan still cautioned all the new designers with a wake-up call: "this market is following suit."

If you do this, someone will think that as long as I come to London to be a show, I am a successful designer, but this is not the case.

The key is your product and brand building, no matter what platform you have, you must do well.