Designers Of The New Generation Have Fled To Find Another Way Out.

Han style clothing, once used as a label, is very popular in fashion.

Today, the label has become dim.

"What's wrong with Han style clothes?"

Countless industry people and consumers are asking.

This reporter lasted nearly a month, has in-depth Wuhan clothing design, production, sales and other links, trying to find answers.

The T platform of Chinese clothes is the soul behind the scenes.

Let's start with the costume design in Wuhan.

On the evening of 20 2015, the China International Fashion Week in Beijing ended.

The three Wuhan universities, Hubei Institute of Fine Arts, Wuhan Textile University and Jianghan University, which were invited to attend, once again achieved remarkable results.

Among them, the Wuhan Textile University has won the first prize in costume design and the two design excellence award. Hubei Institute of Fine Arts has won an award for excellence in design.

Wuhan is the largest training base for garment design talents in Central China.

However, as in previous years, most graduates' employment goals are still concentrated in cities such as North and Guangzhou.

This is a sad statistic: every year, nearly 8 of clothing designers come out of Wuhan to cultivate their cradles.

She participated in the design of APEC "new suit".

At the APEC summit in Beijing in November 10, 2014, the leaders and spouses of the 21 member economies made a collective appearance, and the "new suit" they wore became the focus.

Standing collar, pair of cardigan, shoulder sleeve, Song Jin, Zhang satin, Wan Zi, and Jiang Jiang cliff.

Chinese traditional dress elements are innovative and bright on the basis of inheritance.

As one of the fashion designers at the summit, Zhao Huizhou, chief designer of EACH-WAY fashion group, and his team are mainly responsible for the dress design and sample making of the first ladies.

Zhao Huizhou became the hot topic of media coverage.

In fact, as early as more than 10 years ago, Zhao Huizhou was very famous in the fashion industry.

She has participated in the international fashion week many times as a representative of Chinese brands. He has held fashion shows in France, South Korea, Poland, Russia and Hongkong, and has won the honor of "top ten fashion designers in China" and "best women dress designers".

Turning on Zhao Huizhou's resume, the first sentence is "graduated from the fashion design specialty of Hubei Institute of Fine Arts in 1996".

But after graduation, she did not choose to stay in Wuhan. Instead, she went down to Shenzhen, where she realized her designer's dream of creating a personal brand "Yi Hui".

Speaking of the original South, Zhao Huizhou said: "Shenzhen is a very dynamic city, giving young people many opportunities, young entrepreneurs' intervention is small, and many times they can get government support, so my business is gradually growing."

At that time, she did not have a clear brand positioning, so she felt that her profession was ready to be done, so she designed it.

After more than ten years of development, "Yi Hui" has been loved by urban white-collar workers from its simple product conversion to the brand, the different styles and the price range, and has gradually become the representative of Chinese original designer dress brand.

Zhao Huizhou has been keeping in touch with Wuhan.

In 2006, she opened her first EACHWAY store in Wuhan, and now it has developed to 7.

In the future, she plans to invest in Hankou to create a cultural exchange center as an art publishing platform for EACH-WAY.

Zhao Huizhou was also employed as a visiting professor at her alma mater, where he regularly attended lectures in the Han Dynasty. In the Academy of fine arts, she also had a workroom, which was also a training base for clothing majors.

But Zhao Huizhou has never moved the garment industry base to Wuhan.

In her view, the development of garment enterprises is inseparable from the industrial supply chain system.

For example, in Wuhan, more than 80% of high-end fabrics, accessories and accessories need to be purchased, which makes it difficult to start a garment enterprise in Wuhan.

She said: "Shenzhen is the Special Administrative Region, and it is next to Hongkong. Clothing companies have little pressure in choosing materials, so that I can focus on design and quality."

For the future development of Wuhan's clothing industry, Zhao Huizhou believes that we should create urban culture, change life with design, and let more fashion into the city.

She was the chief designer of Taihe.

As the fifth, eleventh "top ten fashion designers in China", Wang Hongying's name was well known by the industry.

But many people do not know, now is the design director of Hongkong MYTHE CO. design company, graduated from the Wuhan Textile Institute of Technology (Wuhan Textile University predecessor), was the famous Han faction brand "Taihe" chief designer.

Because Wang Hongying worked in Hongkong, Shenzhen and other places all year round, the reporter interviewed her by e-mail.

Referring to the experience of Taihe in the past, Wang Hongying said, "if it weren't for this interview, it would not be possible to open up the memory of more than ten years' work in Taihe, Wuhan.

Back in those days, my heart was full of emotion, gratitude and helplessness.

In 1996, Wang Hongying graduated.

At that time, the garment industry in the coastal areas had developed very well, but mostly in the form of processing or export.

Wang Hongying didn't want to start working. There were too many constraints in design thinking. He hoped to work and learn in the enterprise and improve the design level.

At this time, coincided with the rapid development of Han style clothing, many women's clothing enterprises began to use designers, which strengthened Wang Hongying's determination to stay in Wuhan.

Taihe was the most famous women's clothing brand in Wuhan at that time.

After entering Taihe, Wang Hongying was like a sponge to absorb all kinds of nutrients.

"Taihe" was brilliant. It was the pioneer of the women's clothing industry in China. The designer was invited from France. The production management of Japan was directed by the Japanese, and the Taiwan expert was responsible for the marketing.

Even today, it is a great skill and a great courage. "

Ben wanted to study for one or two years and then went out. I didn't expect to learn and get too many things here.

In Taihe, Wang Hongying contacted Zhang Zhaoda, Song Xin and other famous fashion designers. She kept asking them to improve their design ability.

"Witnessed the Taihe and old company moved into the industrial park, from regional brand to domestic first-line brand.

And I also graduated from a young girl who had just graduated from the university to the top ten fashion designers.

I can not get away from the honor and the platform of the Taihe Group. I am very grateful to the then chairman, Ms. Ding Fenglan, who didn't have the chance to speak up in the past decade.

Wang Hongying's career went smoothly, but in early 2001, she chose to leave.

"At that time, Taihe had a strong influence throughout the country, and it was a long struggle to choose to leave."

That year, Chinese women's clothing had an important turning point. The market has broken down the women's clothing and has sprung up many new brands.

As a designer, Wang Hongying admitted that at that time, Taihe's position was not well pformed from professional women's clothing to dress up professional women, and the overall image and grade had not been further improved. She wanted to expand the fashion and richness of her products and left Wuhan.

After leaving Taihe, Wang Hongying went to Hangzhou to create a new brand, I 'VE.

Two years later, she founded MYTHE CO. design company in Hongkong and Guangzhou to help many brands develop rapidly.

Besides carrying out some design services for the brand, Wang Hongying also carries out original design research according to his own preferences and personality, and makes some personality customization.

He took the lead in designing sportswear in China.

Not long ago, a man wearing a cap and a sports T-shirt sat in the last row of the audience in the fashion show hall of the clothing Institute of Wuhan Textile University. He stared at the model T on the stage.

He is not an eye in the crowd, but has many unmatched backgrounds: he was elected "the top ten fashion designer in China". He was the first designer of sports leisure brand in China, and he was the design director of Jordan sports Limited by Share Ltd.

Today, he has a new title: Associate Professor of Wu Textile College of clothing.

He was the Huang Chi Ming who had studied in this school.

In 1995, Huang Jieming graduated from the clothing department of the former Wuhan Textile Institute of technology.

At that time, the garment industry in mainland China just started, and many garment enterprises were pformed from cotton mills.

Even in the interior of clothing enterprises, the demand for designers is limited, and the employment opportunities of Wuhan's clothing industry are obviously less than that of the coastal areas. Huang has chosen to go down to Guangdong to develop.

Huang Jieming's first club was the first cotton mill in Guangzhou, where he mainly engaged in jeans design.

3 years later, he entered the Guangzhou Bao Yuan Industry and Trade Co., Ltd., the Taiwanese capital enterprise is the China general agent of the sports brand CONVERSE. Huang Jieming also began to engage in the design of sportswear from then on until he became the chief designer of the company.

Since then, Huang Jieming was also in Pepsi fashion design, sportswear, and until 2004, he founded the Ding Fu fashion fashion company limited with several partners to develop products for domestic sports and casual wear brands.

"Product development is more simple, and it allows me to devote all my attention to design and better product quality."

In 2009, Huang Jieming joined Jordan sports Limited by Share Ltd as the design director of the company. He was named the sixteenth China top ten fashion designer in November 2010 at the end of the China International Fashion week.

After the success of his career, Huang Jieming did not return to Wuhan.

In 2012, he left Jordan, and Huang Jieming went to charge the Academy of Fine Arts of Tsinghua University. Professor Li was a professor and studied the design and application of sportswear elements in fashion.

3 years of postgraduate life, his theoretical knowledge has been supplemented, and he has also sprouted the idea of teaching.

At the beginning of this year, Huang Jieming returned to Wu Tai to teach and set up his own studio.

"I used to mainly engage in research and development of sportswear and fashion, but there were more fashion women in Wuhan, so I have not been cooperating with Wuhan enterprises.

At present, the design of many international clothing brands will be integrated into sports elements. In the studio, I believe that my design experience and ideas can help students learn younger sister.

Why nearly 8 designers walk away?

Let's look at such a group of hot data:

In Wuhan, 14 colleges and universities have set up clothing design, costume art, fashion show and other related clothing related majors.

Every year, there are more than 2000 undergraduates in clothing and related specialties, and more than 6000 college students.

Wu Tai Tai, Hubei Academy of fine arts and Jianghan University's clothing design profession ranked the top 10 among the national institutions.

As of 2013, only the Wuhan Textile University has bred more than 30 national design gold award winners, 11 national costume design and performance champions, and won over 100 awards for costume design competition.

It is no doubt that Wuhan is the cradle of talents in garment industry.

Correspondingly, it is another sighting data - nearly 8 young designers are leaving in Wuhan every year.

Zhao Jun, President of Wuhan Fashion Designers Association, said that with such a strong advantage of clothing science and education, Wuhan could not retain professional talents.

Many college graduates choose to go to coastal cities after graduation. The designers who return to the mainland basically only teach in Colleges and universities. Few of them who stay in Wuhan even have their own brands do not cooperate with local enterprises.

Why can't the Wuhan clothing industry retain the design talents?

"The main reason is the lack of integration of local cultural and creative industries and lack of fashion.

Compared with other coastal areas, Wuhan garment industry has been developing at a low level in recent years. More often than not, wholesale trade is conducted. Local clothing companies do not see much of the design.

On the other hand, as a newly graduated designer, they need to go to the market from the classroom and need a re learning process. Wuhan's fashion is not as good as coastal areas. They prefer to go out.

Of course, the gap between income level and coastal areas is also a reason for leaving. "

Zhao Jun thinks.

Li Haibing, director of the clothing department of Hubei Institute of Fine Arts, said: "the industrial system is not sound enough. The local executives of garment enterprises do not train enough designers, while the costumes of the coastal areas pay more attention to the brand and taste, and provide a good space for young people to develop. Young people are more willing to develop."

Faced with the loss of design talents, is the clothing industry in Wuhan aware of this embarrassment?

Is there any deep-seated reason for this phenomenon?

Please look at this newspaper for tomorrow.