GUCCI Personnel Change The Farce You Don'T Know

Patrizio di Marco and her wife Frida Giannini.

Patrizio Di Marco (Patrizio di Marco) did not plan to leave quietly.

In early December last year, Gucci had been in charge for 5 years. Gucci Dee Marco, chief executive officer, was expelled. Although the outside world has long guessed, Gucci's move to a certain extent shocked the global fashion industry. And mark Marco wanted to make clear to Gucci employees that he was fired, and that he would not leave if he did not mention the situation on his side.

In December 18th, di Marco gave a speech at the Gucci staff canteen in Florence, Italy. Part of his speech came from the memorandum he sent to his employees on the same day. The memo was half provocative and half complacent. He once quoted Jobs (Steve Jobs) as saying, "only those who are crazy enough to think that they can change the world can change the world". Most importantly, in his speech, he blamed his resignation on the rival of Gucci, though he did not name it, but he called the enemy a "villain", suggesting that someone was plotting to pull him down.

"Leaving my sacred place, leaving behind an unfinished business is a bad thing." He wrote in a nearly 3000 word article. The New York Times got the document and translated it from Italian to English. He also wrote: "unfortunately, I can not personally see how this beautiful story will continue to develop."

Di Marco's voice is not only an executive who has been abandoned by Gucci as one of the largest fashion companies in the world, but also one of the most influential couples in the fashion industry. Frida Giannini, Gucci's brand creative director, and Di Marco are couple in their lives. They had a daughter two years ago. Freda, And two weeks before he was happy, he also contributed to the 2013 autumn conference of Gucci in Milan fashion week. Jia Nani was also dismissed in December last year, when the atmosphere was unfriendly and there was a further deterioration.

Di Marco and Jia Nani were both surprised to quit Gucci, but it was not worth mentioning the reaction of Gucci's parent company Kering to Jia Nani. This person is Alessandro Michel (Alessandro Michele).

Within hours of the news of Jia Nani's dismissal, the media speculated about who would succeed her position as the most admirable job in the fashion industry. Is it in charge of the French brand of Givenchy, and has successfully transformed it into Riccardo Tisci, a rock star and celebrity Ricardo Tisi Tisci, or an American designer Joseph Altuzarra Joseph? Is it Eddie Slimane Hedi Slimane, another brand of Saint Laurent recently opened, or is it that the Group intends to reactivate Gucci Ford, which has made Gucci the hottest fashion brand in 1990s and still has an impact on Gucci?

As a result, in January 21st, Gucci announced the appointment of Michel. He worked in Gucci's accessories department for 12 years and was promoted to Jia Nani's deputy 3 years ago.

The response of the fashion industry is summed up as a word "who".

During the interview, executives of the fashion industry expressed surprise at Gucci's appointment of Michel, but no one was willing to be interviewed in real name, worried that it would be harmful to criticize Gucci's choice of users.

"I don't know what to think." Asked about Gucci's appointment of Michel, a fashion industry executive who worked with Kai Yun group asked for anonymity. I didn't expect them to choose a nobody. "

When Freda Jia Nani was asked to leave in December last year, the outside world's comments on her in the past few years were mixed, and Gucci's brand sales, which were crucial to the financial condition of the parent company, declined faster and faster. But the company gave her the chance to quit gracefully. In January, she could show her men's wear series, and show her women's wear series at the end of February.

But shortly after the announcement of her resignation in December, Di Marco seemed to be in trouble.

According to two people familiar with the situation but not authorized to represent Gucci, the relationship between Jia Nani and Gucci began to become tense during the days after the departure of Di Marco. Marco Bisali (Marco Bizzarri) took over from Mark Marco for less than a week and clearly felt that he could not maintain the status quo.

In January 9th, Jia Nani, who had worked in Gucci for more than 12 years, was dismissed locally. According to two people familiar with the situation, she left the company on the same day, a few colleagues to help her carry things. According to the spokesman, Michel, new CEO and new creative director, declined to comment. Di Marco and Jia Nani did not respond to requests for e-mail or telephone interviews.

Such vacancies in the fashion industry mean great opportunities. Kai Yun group and its main competitor in the fashion industry, LVMH Mo t Hennessy Louis Vuitton, have been attracting the industry's celebrities through recent job vacancies. Over the past few years, Dior has replaced John Galiano (John Galliano) with Ralph Simon (Raf Simons), and Balenciaga, who opened the cloud, has replaced Nicholas Fechiech (Nicolas Ghesquire) with pressure Mountain King (Alexander Wang), while the latter went to Louis Weedon under the LVMH. Dio Hoe (Dior Homme), former designer Slimane, turned her head from fashion to studying photography, and after a few years of rest, she threw herself into the embrace of Saint Laurent. Almost every such dramatic change has brought commercial success.

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In December last year, Franois-Henri Pinault, CEO Franois-Henri of Kai Yun group, said that Gucci needed a new perspective, supplemented by "bolder display", implying that similar bold measures were taking place soon.

At first, all the concerns were focused on Givenchy designer Dixie. Gucci The name of this beautiful rumor has long been circulating. But this is not true, according to Dixie.

"No, no, absolutely not." Last month, during the Paris spring and summer fashion week, I asked if the cloud group was out of touch with him. He said, "I am very satisfied with the company I am working for."

According to two people familiar with the situation, Gucci's new CEO pizza and its parent company CEO, Henry Pino, did not seriously consider hiring designers from outside. They soon locked up Michel who had worked with Jia Nani for many years. Michel came to Gucci with Jen Ni, and the former two had also worked in Fendi (Fendi).

"I have to say, I think a lot of people are inconceivable about this decision because Gucci is very important, and it brings so much revenue to the whole group." Imran Armand, editor in chief of fashion industry The Business of Fashion, said, "despite this, the whole fashion industry is still on the sidelines."

Vogue editor in chief Anna Wintour (Anna Wintour) said she had seen Michel since he took office just after the end of January.

"He's a little weird, just a little bit, but very attractive." "I really like to chat with him," she said last week in the Oscar de la Renta show in Oscar Renta.

As for his work, she quickly added, "I haven't seen anything yet. We just drank a cup of coffee. "

Last week, Tom Ford declined to comment on the changes in Gucci during a brief interview in the latest fashion show in Losangeles. But when he mentioned Michel, he said: "when he was working with me, he was an excellent handbag designer."

In January, Michel rushed out the Gucci men's wear series, and his official debut as Gucci creative director should be Jia Nani's last show in Gucci: this week's women's fall series released in Milan.

Gucci dominates the luxury business of Kai Yun group. (Kai Yun group, once known as PPR, was earlier known as Gucci group). In 2004, Gucci made a profit of 3 billion 490 million euros (about 24 billion 505 million yuan), or nearly 4 billion dollars. The two luxury brands ranked second and third in Kai Yun group are Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent, and the two together bring a profit of 2 billion US dollars.

Gucci has been established for a century, but it has not been a major contributor to profit and income until 20 years ago. At the beginning of 1990s, Gucci was once on the verge of bankruptcy.

"At that time, Gucci was going to go bankrupt." Domenico De Sole, former CEO of Gucci group, said on the phone, "it had an incredible brand at that time, but the Gucci family had an ideal management for it." Domenico

De Sole and Tom Ford joined hands and quickly reversed the situation. Ford's work as creative director has become the most popular transformation in fashion history. He introduced sexy and flawless fashion stars in Gucci's works, creating a fashion empire. Karin Roitfeld (Carine Roitfeld) is one of them. In the years following Ford and de Sole's success, Gucci bought the butterfly family and bought shares in Alexander McQueen and Stella Mccartney Stella McCartney.

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