Wu Wenqing, The Inheritor Of The Production Of "Non Heritage" Western-Style Clothes
In Shanghai, there was a clothing company founded in 1928, which was mainly made up of Western-style clothes, and the technicians from generation after generation created their traditional skills with their three treasures - "tape measure, scissors and iron", making it a synonym for "Shanghai style suit".
"Proumo, the pride of more than half a century" is a well-known and familiar slogan. It has witnessed the brilliance of the 84 year old Chinese clothing brand.
Today, the company is recognized not only by the Ministry of Commerce as the first batch of "China Time-honored Brand", but also by its "tailored tailoring skills" into the national intangible cultural heritage hall. In 2012, the company also passed the evaluation as the first "Shanghai custom tailor".
It is in such a time-honored brand with profound historical details and stringent requirements for technology that one person endows and inherits the spirit and soul of the whole brand -- the chief technician of the company, the manager of the intelligent CAD custom center, and the successor of "Pei Meng Meng Feng tailoring skills".
Wu Wen Qing
。
Tailor for the president
As a close disciple of Lu Chengfa, the late Super Master, Wu Wenqing made every 15 suits: that is, the appearance is flat, straight, straight, straight, upright, conformed to fat, nests, circles, clothes and cunning, and the operation must be pushed, returned, pulled, tied, and sank in place, showing a beautiful effect.
It was Wu Wenqing's exquisite skills and excellent service that conquered every picky customer, and won a good reputation for the enterprise. His custom center was famous, and honor and fame and fortune also came one after another. He began to serve some special important groups.
To this end, "Pei Luo Meng" has set up a "national group", led by Wu Wenqing three leading technicians of the same skill, specialized in completing the difficult task of national leaders and politicians.
At the opening of the Olympic Games, the Foreign Affairs Office of the municipal government gave Shanghai a special task of the company, which is one of the more than 70 heads of state invited by the Chinese Olympic Games, and Samoa's head of state, Effie, ordered a suit for 28 hours to be worn at the opening ceremony of the Olympic Games.
The short time is something that has never been experienced by the national production team.
Samoa is an island country, attaches great importance to the national characteristics of its own country. For this reason, Wu Wenqing repeatedly weighed the original size data, combined with image and pictures, carefully selected materials, cut and perfected the local national element patterns, and formulated a comprehensive plan.
Finally, with the joint efforts of all the group of guests, they fought hard all night, and sent the suit to the president 4 hours in advance.
After trying on the president, the president was very satisfied and highly praised. He proposed to add a long dress to the president's wife as an affirmation of "Pei Luo Meng".
Although the company never made long skirts, but in the face of the needs of foreign leaders, Wu Wenqing decided to do something specially, completed the production of the skirt and handed it to the president's wife.
The president and his wife were very touched when they received their clothes and took pictures and videos.
Wu Wenqing said: "as an old brand of Western-style clothes, our work is sometimes not only as simple as making clothes, but also reflects the hospitality and hospitality of Chinese people, and conquers foreign leaders with exquisite skills and quality service, and ultimately shoulders the heavy responsibility of representing the national image."
Wu Wenqing's impressive driving task, as well as the 2011 party building 90th anniversary, was the leading body of the municipal government.
A total of 308 sets of clothes were left for only 25 days, and great pressure fell on Wu Wenqing's shoulders.
"The hardest part is color selection and dyeing at the beginning."
Wu Wenqing recalled, "the color of clothing is secretary of the municipal Party committee secretary brought the sample color block standard in advance, we must strictly follow the sample to the factory for color matching, dyeing, can not have the slightest chromatic aberration.
So the beginning of the dyeing stage consumed a lot of time, resulting in the last production left only 10 days, very intense.
As the main person in charge, Wu Wenqing, who was under enormous psychological pressure, took his team to make up the 308 sets of clothes all day and night, and overcome the technical difficulties a little bit.
When the last Wu Wenqing team handed the costumes to the Expo site, every leader was very satisfied, which made Wu Wenqing tremendous pressure to release: "the city government has put such a major task on my hands, from the grasp of time node to the quality assurance, and then to the meticulous and meticulous service, so it is absolutely not allowed to fail.
At last, when the task was completed, the whole people felt exhausted, but the successful completion of the task made me feel that all the effort was worth it. "
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In addition, Wu Wenqing has successfully completed the production of foreign affairs, government officials, VIP distinguished guests and staff members, and has been greatly commended by the relevant leaders.
After winning the honor of "the first national commercial service brand", "National Youth Civilization" and "Shanghai model worker collective", the team led by him still maintains the momentum of climbing the peak and providing more high-end brand services to more customers.
Heaven rewards men
Today's brilliant achievements depend on yesterday's hard work. As a successor to the sixth generation of Wu Wenqing's suit, the skills of "non heritage" have also been created by the past.
"In the past, tailoring skills were not passed on, nor did they do things in front of people.
At that time, the master was always the first to work in the shop. When he opened the door, he finished all his work. We could only wait for him to go for a stroll around the tea, so that he could take the clothes he had done carefully and carefully read them.
Wu Wenqing recalled the scene when he was an apprentice at Fu Cheng door.
"At that time, the master used to educate us in a traditional way. He thought that the new apprentices had to run their legs and pour tea, but then I had a strong desire for knowledge and a hard working nature and a solid foundation. Finally, I allowed the master to move the knife for the first time after I entered the company.
For the first time, Wu Wenqing is still fresh in his memory.
One day, the master painted himself and said, "come, you cut," when the excitement was almost indescribable.
Although these things can be done by themselves, at this time, Wu Wenqing is no longer completing a homework or exercise, but participating in the operation of the enterprise, which makes him feel nervous and excited.
"Painting size, cutting cloth, every step to the master, and according to the correction of the master, and then to the upstairs production workshop, waiting for the guests to come, began to give samples to the guests, after trial and then continue to modify, after the change, have to give the master to see, the master again pointing, and then upstairs to do, repeat several times until the customer satisfaction.
Finally, I watched the clothes made by me in the whole process hang up there, so that the sense of accomplishment and happiness will not be forgotten for a lifetime, that is, from then on, I got a lot of encouragement and confidence.
Wu Wenqing, the "close disciple", recalled the scene when the master allowed himself to start his knife for the first time. He felt a faint pride in his shyness.
Opportunity always patronize those who are prepared.
As the first batch of students admitted to the professional class of clothing, Wu Wenqing's three years of solid basic skill is the foundation of his advanced technology.
In the course of the interview, Wu Wenqing showed his hands to the reporter, and his right hand held a painting of chalk for a long time. Because of the burning of powder ash, it had fallen off the skin of the season, and the thumb grips the scissors.
Wu Wenqing said, "although I do not suffer much in practicing basic skills, I still enjoy the benefits of solid basic skills.
This is like building a building. If the foundation is unstable, several layers will collapse. If the foundation is strong, even if the number of floors is increased, it will remain unmoved.
Just like now, I want to pursue a higher professional or career goal, is a solid and solid basic skills, gave me a great self-confidence of capital, let me continue to have more room for growth.
Even now, Wu Wenqing has never given up his higher pursuit of professionality. In 2009, he obtained the National Certificate of senior business manager.
"That day was my 45 birthday. I thought it was the best birthday present for me."
Wu Wenqing now remembered the happiness and pride of his face at that time.
For Wu Wenqing's speciality, Jin Jianhua, general manager of the company, said: "now he has reached the level of" going mad ". Even his ability to live has been" degraded ". His memory is not particularly good. Even if the leader talks to him, he will turn around and forget everything, and all his energy will be put on his design.
Wu Wenqing said, when I see a nice dress, even a picture, I will see it for a long time.
Although this picture is static, it moves in my eyes, and the picture is clearly in front of my eyes. What I am thinking of is the softness of the material, the proportion of technology and design, and even the tailoring structure of the clothing has been broken up in my mind.
As the saying goes, interest is the best teacher. What can Wu Wenqing do to his business?
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Breaking through the creative dream of self
Brand of brand
Standing up for 84 years, instead of falling down, it has become more and more stable. The inheritance of traditional handicraft skills has become its core competitiveness. Wu Wenqing, a successor to the traditional technology of por Luo, takes the inheritance of traditional and innovative brands as his responsibility, and leads customized members to carry out technological innovation and scientific research and innovation, so that the brand characteristics have been innovating and developing.
In response to this, Jin Jianhua said: "in 1992, the state was in the initial stage of reform and opening up. At that time, the traditional suit market was no longer viable, and the products coming out of the streamlined operation were unified, seriously affecting the highly skilled manual customization industry.
At that time, he pointed out that while firmly adhering to the traditional brand craft, we must join in the innovation of modern technology and inject new vitality and fresh blood into the brand so as to develop in the long run. This fact proves that this idea is very correct.
The laws of the market and the direction of the company make Wu Wenqing firmly believe that in today's western-style clothes making industry, it is fundamental to inherit the fine traditional craft, and the development of scientific and technological clothing is the absolute principle.
After the company introduced the CAD clothing design system, he gave up the holidays and his family gathering time, ran through all the major libraries in Shanghai, and studied the related knowledge of intelligent clothing CAD integrated application system.
He took the university teachers and experts as his teachers, studied CAD technology, observed the fashion trends both at home and abroad, and applied these learning experiences and insights to his work.
This has also injected young vigor into the process of generations.
In addition, Wu Wenqing has led the members of the center to develop projects such as the "online system of personal recognition" and "the new generation of national clothing research and development" and other technical projects, pforming scientific research achievements into productive forces, and arming the traditional enterprises with computer-aided equipment systems.
In addition to technological innovation, design innovation is more urgent.
In Wu Wenqing's view, the biggest pressure comes from the breakthrough in clothing design innovation.
Especially for Western-style clothes such a traditional concept of a very formal dress, how to change the fabric and style to fashion and leisure style, is Wu Wenqing's thinking all the time.
"I have been in the company for 30 years since I was young, and I have come into contact with traditional things. But now I have to touch new ideas and designs, and bring out the bright ideas, upgrading techniques and so on."
Wu Wenqing said: "there will be two exhibitions in the second half of this year. One is the cultural festival of the western culture, the other is a time-honored exposition. We should discard the outdated parts and let people see innovation and see changes in the market, so that the brand can play a guiding role in the market."
"Make clothes first and behave yourself."
It is Wu Wenqing's principle of working for 30 years.
"All of us are talking about handicrafts, clothes, and how to behave.
If you wear a good garment on a customer, he will shake hands with me and come back next time, which is the biggest affirmation for me.
Wu Wenqing told reporters that he had a deep love for his profession and gave it to him almost all his life.
"In 1992, we had eight technicians, some older than Wu Wenqing, and excellent technology, but unfortunately, some of these eight people could not resist the temptation of others. Some felt that they were too hard to be tailors. They had to give up, and only one of them was strong enough to stay, so he was the only one who achieved success."
Jin Jianhua said.
Modesty, introverted, professional, rigorous, deep, like the characteristics of the brand of Wu Wenqing, the successor of this generation of master's skills, explains the connotation of Chinese traditional clothing with practical action. Although the process of insisting on it is very hard or even lonely, but he relies on a piece of chalk, a pair of scissors and a ruler to cut out the spirit of Chinese traditional clothing technology.
In Wu Wenqing, we seem to see the rise of China's own generation of national brand design masters, persistent adherence, coupled with excellent skills and love for customized art. We have reason to believe that a broader international stage is welcoming the Chinese nation.
Clothing design
The arrival of the master.
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