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The Chaotic World Of "Gaultier"

2012/3/10 13:22:00 41

2005 wedding dress in high autumn and winter fashion

If Christine La's boast and John Galiano's designs often inspire people's illusions about wealth, luxury and exclusiveness, he tends to show more interest in the underrated culture. London street children's high Mohawk hairstyle and safety pin pin skirt, hiric Jewish dress, French Kang Kang dance and dancers, although each designer will get some inspiration from street style, but in Gao Tiye, messy daily life will be more unimpeded landing on his stage T.

Therefore, "punk Kang" discusses the aesthetic influence of London punk culture and Paris fashion, or Paris's Pigalle and Trafalgar. The influence of different races and cultures caused him to derive his new form from the traditional national costume. Finally, "metropolis" sneaked into his futuristic creations. He contributed his costume design to Almodovar's "Chi card", Luc Besson's "fifth elements", Peter Greenaway's chef, robber, his wife and her lover.

"Why not?" in the word "why not?" in the "bad boy" series in 1984, he used to turn his skirt into a man's dress for the first time. Though he sold 30 thousand men's skirts later, he had always defended his intention of no provocation, but was inspired by tradition, from the Scotland men wearing skirts, and the waiters wearing aprons in the restaurant. "This is not a homosexual statement. On the contrary, men are changing. They are no longer as manly as they used to be. Men can cry, women can fight, why not? "

His choice of models is exactly the same. In the middle of 1970s, the fashion world was dominated by tall blondes. He chose the models of different races to walk on his stage. FaridaKhelfa, a female model, was a descendant of North Africa and played an important role in Paris fashion show for the first time. After the French government issued strict immigration laws, he also used 100% black models on T. His models also include overweight, bald, old, tattooed, Lubensi's characters, or Modigliani's portrait face, because they are chosen for their unconventional beauty.

When he released his first fashion series at the planetarium in Paris in 1976, there were only 9 models, made of cheap cloth made of cotton printed cloth, canvas and household textiles. clothing The stretches of long sleeved tights are covered with rose buds, pierced hearts and tribal spirals. Motorcycle costumes and ballet skirts are unexpectedly grafted together. Although they are cheap, they are presented in a respectful way. Since then, such mixed and unexpected techniques have repeatedly appeared in his designs. {page_break}

Silk corset in the 2001 spring and summer fashion series

Born in April 24, 1952, he grew up in a depressed environment in the suburbs of Paris. His father is an accountant and his mother is a clerk. His grandmother, Marie, lives near his home and runs a family health care home alone, providing massage, beauty, marriage counseling services to her female clients. She is an eccentric and unruly widow who likes to go out in a petticoat. So later, she said, "underwear is worn out" is a thought stolen from her.

Marie doted on her grandson. In her home, little Gao Teye was allowed to watch the TV show like "Paris goddess hall" (TheFoliesBergere), so that a little boy would face the woman wearing the bra and mesh stockings. There is an old picture at the exhibition. The teenage tall lady is making hair for Marie. He looks happy, and she looks like he was kidnapped.

At the age of 18, Gao Teye dropped out of school early and began working in Pierre Cardin studio. In addition to his grandmother's costume aesthetic enlightenment, he has repeatedly mentioned how Jacques's 1945 movie Falbalas has influenced his career choices in his lifetime. JacquesBecker has made a great contribution to his career. If he had not seen the film, he would not have become a fashion designer. The movie about a woman dress designer fell in love with a friend's wife, went through a mental breakdown, finally holding a personal model jump window suicide. In addition to the romantic plot, there are still a lot of designers working in the building, women working in the studio, etc. Later, when young JeanPatou was working for an old fashioned French fashion company, Jean Badou, he felt that he had finally lived in his favorite movie situation.

To this day, the end of the "high Teye fashion world" exhibition still responds to the last episode in the decoration. The designer began to gaze at a human model and suddenly became a phantom of a woman he loved. This gave the idea of the model of the tall lady to live. He has seen a theatrical performance in Avignon, where animated images can be projected onto the faces of dummy models, creating similar illusions.

He worked with Quebec's stage director and set designer Dennis Marlow to create more than 30 such human models, dressed in his designs, able to speak, wink, smile and sigh. The effect of image projection makes clothes lively and disturbing. Among them, the first model is a tall shirt wearing a blue shirt. He is introducing himself to the audience and welcoming the welcome speech. {page_break}

Tights were added to Madonna's sexy provocation and feminist connotations.

　　 Madonna Two sets of corsets worn by the 1990 "Blonde Ambition" concert were released for the exhibition. Before Madonna's global tour, Gao Teye had released his first corset "dada" series. He once said, "my grandmother told me that a corset can make a woman look up and be a woman." This may explain his continued motivation for designing corsets. One of the legendary exhibits at the exhibition is a disorderly teddy bear, whose fur has fallen off, its nose is worn away, and its body is wearing a simple cone brassiere. This is the 7 year old Nana's bra for tall Teddy.

The connection with Madonna made gtteye get the popularity of fashion designers. They met in 1989, from the rebellion and the extension of the gender mix, and the two men had some spiritual similarities. He designed 358 sets of costumes for Madonna's 1990 World concerts. Madonna, with a golden hair ponytail, wore a pink corset with an exaggerated cone cup and a black man's trousers. It became a lasting image of the times.

The corset came to Madonna and was added to the connotations of sexy provocation and feminist protest. Is it a restraint on women or a pair of armor, giving the ideal female fighter strength? It can be analyzed many social, gender and even political implications. But in many cases, meaning is only given, and it is likely that the truth of the matter is much simpler. Gao Tiye is amazed at the social noise aroused by his corset. "I didn't know it would happen. I just designed it naturally."

Andre Paige's kissing male model Andre Paige in the 2011 spring advertisement (right two)

American women's model Kelly Klaus dressed in 2012 spring and summer fashion (right three)

Male model Andre Paige, born in Serbia, was at the 2012 spring and summer fashion show (right four).

Pedro Almodovar, a film director, met with Gao Teye in 1980s. When the two met in Paris, he took him to the most traditional French restaurant and went to see the latest performers. Almodovar believed that he did not lie or commit innocence. He once confirmed: "he has an innocent and real aspect, and will not do it just to get the shock effect. His design can be very sexy, but never dirty, it can be provocative, but not posing.

After entering the fashion world 25 years later, in 1996, he decided to start designing high fashion. At that time, high fashion was constantly lamented about the bleak era of dying, and he seemed the most unlikely designer to be interested in high fashion companies. At first, he thought he could only do a series, but soon discovered that he liked the freedom and expression of high fashion. He can be very bold in designing, using synthetic rubber, latex and other fetishism materials in it, and also can return to the traditional exquisite handwork. He could conceive a corset fitted with lace lace, or an elastic stretch suit with exquisite details. The wearer seemed to be naked but glittering. In the first few years, he even showed 120 sets of high fashion at each press conference, while the French High Fashion Association had only 35 sets of rules. {page_break}

High Teye senior in January of last year. Women's wear At the press conference, the 19 year old male model Andre Paige (AndrejPejic) appeared in the near transparent white wedding dress. He had appeared in the T conference of gout's men's wear conference. Born in Serbia, Andre Paige has a beautiful blond hair and unusual beautiful and beautiful facial features. In 2011, he was holding a kiss with the same blond Karolina Kurkova (KarolinaKurkova). For hermaphrodite or androgyny, the definition of "high Teye" is "this is the time to transition from youth to youth, and their beauty is also between men and women".

The director of the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts curator Natalie Bodil explained, "Gao Teye is a designer of humanity. Besides the technical diversity, imagination and artistic cooperation of high fashion, he offers an open minded society and a unique" fusion fashion ". In his absurd, sensitive, interesting, fashionable and non discriminatory world, everyone can infuse himself.

It seems to be a kind of annotation. The company headquarters of Gao Teye does not concentrate on the "Golden Triangle" zone of most of the high fashion companies on Champs Elysees street, but in the past union building of Saint Martin street, Marlay district. In the building where the "proletarian future" is still at the door, he has been dreaming of a fashion world that breaks the race and gender barriers for decades. There is no fixed pattern between playing and underwear, between white and black, between men and women, and no rigid concept of beauty. Why not?

Therefore, the exhibition of "the high fashion world: from the sidewalk to the fashion flyover" in the art museum is like a deliberate self celebration and commemoration. The world tour began last summer in Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, Canada, followed by San Francisco, Madrid and Rotterdam until next year's Stockholm.

Another well-known "bad boy" in the fashion industry, the late Alexander McCune, and the two are designers with strong visual effects. They all have the ability to make the audience feel uneasy. If McQueen looked inward and was guided by the dim thoughts of his heart, so that he was plunged into painful insecurity and self insecurity, then Gao Teye looked outwards and fully and optimistically into the whirlpool of life.

For fashion designers, the past few years have been frustrating. Christine Racua was forced to leave his company. Yamamoto Teruji was almost bankrupt and rescued by an angel investor. Alexander Makundis and Galliano were fired. Mark Jacob booth fought for years with drugs and alcohol. By contrast, Gao Teye is one of the few "survivors" in this circle. He seems more realistic and down-to-earth than others. Apart from his brand name, he served as the design director of Hermes from 2003 to 2010, and the Hermes group had 45% of the company's shares.

But he once mentioned in different interviews that when the curator of Montreal Museum of Fine Arts, Natalie Bodil, suggested to him in the summer of 2009, to hold a fashion show to reflect his way of looking at the world, he felt very reluctantly, "because the atmosphere of the museum is always dead, hanging up old clothes, like a funeral, and I like something very fresh." He felt that unless he could show everything he was obsessed with - "body, race, film, Madonna, tattoo, Parisian, all kinds of beauty in the world", he agreed.

Thierry Loriot, the curator, selected 140 sets of clothing and accessories from 6 of the more than 8000 garments designed by Gao Teye in the past decades, and completed his requirements. Most of the costumes on display are from his high fashion series, and he also mixed up the 80s and 90s twentieth Century ready-made clothes with the twenty-first Century high fashion.

Each of the 6 units has the title of the general aesthetics of high teyle fashion, starting with the "Odyssey Odyssey", showing his preference for blue stripes, mermaids and virgins. In the boudoir, the soft and sexy costumes are related to the theme of women's underwear, including the legendary conical bra. "Deep skin" involves how he constantly uses human skin as inspiration, tattoo as a printed pattern of fabrics, a "muscle pack" printed by a wrong look, as well as a sexually twisted body belt.