What Can We Do To Save "China Card" Silk?
Clear the waves, and the wind sends the sound of ten thousand planes.
This is a couplet engraved on the wall of Bailong bridge in Shengze Town, Wujiang, Jiangsu, which describes the prosperous scene of the silk industry in Shengze town during the Ming and Qing Dynasties.
Until the end of the last century, Shengze's "sunrise, silk and quilt" became a world-class silk town.
Today, Shengze's silk industry, which has been flourishing for hundreds of years, is almost gone.
chemical fiber
Replace.
At present, there are less than 20 enterprises producing real silk products in Shengze, and more than 2300 of them are "chemical fiber enterprises".
Silk capital
"Conversion" means the silk industry.
atrophy
The trend is inevitable.
In fact, it is not only Shengze, but also Suzhou, Hangzhou and Huzhou, which are the four largest silk cities, have no decent silk industry pcript.
The industry is worried that silk "Chinese name card" may have come to the need to protect as a cultural heritage.
Now, what can we do to save it?
Multiple pressure causes silk fabric without silk.
Zhong Yonglin, deputy secretary of the CPC's Working Committee of the Oriental Silk Market in Shengze, admits that the silk market has shrunk to a very small proportion in the turnover of the Eastern Silk Market.
In the 1-9 months of this year, the market turnover reached 54 billion 750 million yuan, up 17.6% over the same period last year, but the volume of silk trading will not exceed 500 million yuan a year, accounting for about 6/1000 to 8/1000. This is a great contrast to the situation that occupied the entire Wujiang economy by the most brilliant period of Shengze silk.
What is the reason? Zhong Yonglin said, on the one hand, because of the great impact of the substitute products such as chemical fiber and so on, the demand for the domestic market is gradually decreasing. In recent years, due to various storms and crises, the demand in the international market has been depressed, orders have been reduced significantly, and the appreciation of the RMB has also reduced the profits of the enterprises. On the other hand, the upstream of silk products is cocoon and white silk. In recent years, the price fluctuates greatly, and the enterprises are getting worse.
As the eastern region was gradually reduced by the industrial development, the area of mulberry mulberry and the low income of cocoon farmers also mostly went out to work. In the case of "east to West shift", the purchasing price of cocoons had risen sharply, and the highest increase was over 50% this year. The white silk was even more off the mark. Last year to the end of this year, the fluctuation rate was more than 109%.
Besides, besides the high price of raw materials and the occupation of funds, silk weaving has the characteristics of long production cycle, high technical requirements and complicated process flow. Pan Zhenyu, a Shengze science and technology office, said that chemical fiber weaving is on the contrary. It has the advantages of low equipment investment, low raw material price, short production cycle and technical operation requirements of workers.
Moreover, in 2010, the production of chemical fiber weaving was very profitable, so cocoon and silk production enterprises changed their chemical fibers.
The catcher explores the high-end route.
Shengze silk is "barometer" and "wind vane" of China's silk industry. The situation of "four big silk cities" is similar, but the direction of production is different.
Is there really a market prospect for silk? Some watchers do not think so.
Wu Jianhua, vice chairman of Wujiang Silk Industry Association and chairman of Dingsheng silk Co., Ltd., told reporters that silk products are natural luxury products. They must take the high-end line. Some foreign brands use Chinese silk and even fabrics, such as Hermes silk scarves, some of which sell for up to three thousand or four thousand yuan, and there is still a market.
In China, with the improvement of people's living standard, the demand for personal clothing and bedding is higher and higher. It pays more attention to environmental protection and health. But silk is known as "second skin" and chemical fiber products can not be compared.
Therefore, if the silk products are positioned accurately, develop well and expand sales, there must be a large market.
As the first private silk fabric manufacturer in Shengze after the reform and opening up, Dingsheng silk has realized the production and R & D of all kinds of silk products such as fabrics, home textiles, clothing, gifts and so on. It has become the backbone of Shengze's real silk industry and has gained a small reputation in China.
Three years ago, the obscure private enterprise merged the first card of the former Suzhou silk industry, Suzhou's Tung Wu silk weaving mill.
Wu Jianhua said, as long as you do it with your heart, Shengze silk will surely be on the road of revival.
His secret is to focus on research and development, design and sales, and work with Donghua University to develop a new fabric design style, and innovative addition of high-grade protein fiber in mulberry silk. The home textile products made of this material have the characteristics of wear resistance, anti decolorization, wrinkle resistance, good heat preservation effect and so on.
The self developed silk fabric has also been officially included in the National Textile Science and technology project.
These R & D has brought vitality to enterprises and brought greater profits.
At the same time, heyday also collaborate with an agent in Losangeles to acquire popular design information and expand export channels, and then play the two independent brands of "Roma Shijia" and "Shang Kai Kai".
The brand is very important. Speaking of this, Wu Jianhua has a deep feeling. Last year, at the TEXTWORLD exhibition in France and the PV fabric exhibition held at the same time, his products were sold to European guests at 60 yuan per meter, and they sold 60 euros at the PV exhibition after listing.
Accelerate the development of cultural industries
When reporters interviewed the silk industry in Shengze, they heard the most that Chinese silk could no longer give themselves Dai Guanghuan.
Today, it is worth mentioning that the export of raw silk and silk fabrics accounts for 90% and 70% of the total volume of the world's trade. However, silk products are far behind the rising products of Italy, Japan and other countries. Chinese silk is no longer the luxury that foreign envoys have been looking for overseas.
Over time, China's silk industry will gradually die out.
Without the silk industry, such silk culture would not have the soil for survival and development. Silk's "Chinese name card" might really be found in the old pile of paper.
Some watchers in the silk industry of Shengze believe that silk, as a representative of Chinese traditional culture, can be defined as both the textile industry and the cultural industry. The government should formulate policies to encourage and encourage the silk enterprises to accelerate technological innovation, develop their culture and make fine products, and adhere to the road of shaping international brands, such as encouraging silk enterprises to develop products with Chinese cultural characteristics, developing international sales channels, and participating in international fashion fabrics and clothing exhibitions by incorporating cultural industry projects.
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